Location >>

Creeping Senility, 5.6

To get to Creeping Senility, 5.6, on Old Peoples Dome take the road down hill from the brown Custer State Park cabin. At the point where the Sunday Gulch trail leaves the old road (watch for blue arrows) head straight across the hill on a climbers trail to a saddle and a spire called Riddle (beyond this is Middle Earth). From Riddle follow a small trail down hill to the right, to where it ends at the base of Creeping Senility (the left most set of bolts just right of a chimney/gully). The first clip is fairly high. The start might be the crux, so feel free to use the tree to get going. The bolts are fairly run out, especially towards the top. After placing a medium cam in the horizontal and slinging a horn, clip one more bolt, move slightly right (you might find another bolt from another route) then up to a two bolt anchor on the shoulder. You can belay from there or continue to the top if you clip the anchor with a long runner and have a 60-meter rope. Take the path of least resistance in a groove above the poison ivy. The view of the Northern Hills and Harney Peak, and Conn Diagional from the top is great. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with 2 ropes via a 5.9 route (Geri-crawl) back to your gear.

Gear: Quickdraws, and a couple hand sized cams (1-2 camalot), Long slings to eliminate rope drag, and sling horns. You can TR the 5.9 that follows the rap line.

 

 Warning:  Rock Climbing can be dangerous.  Use this information at your own risk.

 
< Prev   Next >