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The Conn Diagonal on the north side of
Outer Outlet is a three pitch classic and possibly one of Jan and
Herb Conn's finest rock climbing achievements. Along the Sunday Gulch hiking trail,
find the brown Custer State Park cabin and take the road past the remains of the stone structure on the right,
down the hill and around past Rhinocerous Rock to the left side of the
north face of Outer Outlet (clear as mud, better bring a map of South Dakota to find it).
P1: Standing on a small boulder,
start up this right angling route by climbing the huge flake system.
Enjoy the exposed step across just past the rusty piton (protect with a
finger sized cam) Climb approximately 130 feet to the first belay
(bolts will allow you to rap to the ground if needed).
P2: The
grand traverse pitch is a wildly exposed section of climbing across an
abyss. Protect with a standard rack up to a 3.5 friend (a 4 can be nice
for the anchor). A fall here would be difficult to recover from, as it
would be hard to get back up to good holds. Belay in the hallway at a
gear anchor.
P3: Several variations. The original route follows a
jagged crack up and left to a chimney with a wicked fun contortionist
entrance. Once the chimney is gained, the climbing is of the fun, but
rather unprotected variety. Belay in the huge pothole at the top.
V1:
Take the 5.8 inward flaring crack up and right to a nice stance on the
face. Follow the face/arête up to the pot hole belay and don’t think
about how far away your last piece of gear is.
Rack: Cams and stoppers up to about 4”
Descent: Rap
off the opposite side on the anchors at the top of a climbing route called Jugs. Get to them by
jumping across (belay recommended) the chasm (the last pitch of the original route Jan and
Herb ascended). One rope rap to the 1st ledge then find the second rap
anchors behind you (away from the rock 25') and down to the right as
you walk/climb away from Outer Outlet (a belay down to the anchors over
this exposed terrain is a good idea).
Rock Climbing can be dangerous if not done correctly. Use this information at your own risk.
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Needles Climbing 
