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South Seas

South Seas rock is perhaps the most popular of the Mount Rushmore climbing areas. It is located just north of highway 244 at the west entrance signs on the Black Hills National Forest / Mount Rushmore border. Park in the Wrinkled Rock Trailhead or at the pull off at the Black Hills National Forest signs. At each parking area, you will find trail leading into the rock climbing areas. The climbing area there lays on both the Black Hills Forest and Mt Rushmore, so know where you are climbing and please follow the land managers rules that apply to that area. The Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Climbers Guide by Vernon R. Phinney is the best Rushmore climbing guide book out there right now.

 

Some Routes of the area:

 

Waves: 5.8 From the Mount Rushmore Climber Registration Station along the old roadbed head east for a few steps and then duck to the left through a rock slot and around the sharks fin. Around this rock take the second gully on the left and start looking for bolts. There is a collection of routes of similar grade know as waves. You can do one of the 3 approach pitches and combine it with a second pitch above the common anchor. Sounds confusing, and it is, but you'll figure it out when you see it. The climbing is fun and well protected.

 

W.A.S.P: 5.9 This many stared route is not to be missed. Its west of Waves and begins by climbing one of 2 crack systems up to a block. The left side of the block seems easier to me. Take a few pieces of gear to protect the lower section. The bolted face above holds the crux that is rather stiff for the grade. Put your thinking cap on to work this one out.

 

Toy Boat: 5.7 This rock and climbing route of the same name is a popular gathering point as there are several moderate lines in the area, that can be set up once you top out. To get there, head west from the Mount Rushmore Climbers Registration Station along the old road to a well worn trail on the right (north). Follow it and drop down to the right. The granite mass on the left is toy boat. Everything is bolted and can be top roped with one rope.

 

There are many other great routes to be climbed in this area.

 

Solitaire 5.7

Ankles Away 5.10

Shady Proposition 5.11

Climb-us-interuptus 5.10

x- Marks The Spot 5.10


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