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Cowboy Jazz, 5.8

Near Sylvan Lake on Photographers peak, Cowboy Jazz is an exciting fun filled route that is pretty stout for the 5.8 grade.  From the General Store parking lot walk or drive up Needles Highway towards the Sylvan Lake Campground.  At the wide spot in the road follow the trail through the grass to the base of Photographers Peak.  Once at the peak, head south (right) along the face through a little hallway passing under Over Exposure.  Cowboy Jazz is the last bolted route on that level along the wall.

P1:  Start in a trad crack and follow this 10' flake to its summit, clip a bolt and begin the face route past several more bolts to the anchor.  Pulling past the bulge is the crux and I've made it go both ways, but always thought it was hard.

P2:  The bolted anchors in the middle of the face are fairly new and you can top rope both Cowboy Jazz and Just Another Pretty Face from them.  The original route went up to a ledge system where you will find some Leeper hangers, and a run out face to the summit of Photographers Peak.  If you belay at the Leeper hanger anchor, please back them up with traditional climbing gear (I find a red tri-cam and a small alien can back things up nicely).


Descent:  If you make your way to the summit of Photographers Peak where many of the historic pictures of Sylvan Lake were taken, you have several options.  Most opt to head south towards Custer, and down climb around to the left.  There are a couple exposed fifth class moves on the way down.  

Option 2:  There are rap anchors on the front side that will get you to the ledge or the new anchors on the face of Photographers Peak.  Otherwise stop your rappel at the big ledge and walk away from Needles Highway through the hallway.  At the end there is a short free hanging rappel.

Gear:  Rack up with a few stoppers and some quickdraws.   

 

Warning:  Rock Climbing can be dangerous.  Use this information at your own risk.

 
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