The Needles Eye, 5.8

The Needles Eye

The first ascent of the Needles Eye was via a line of aid bolts.  Now there are a couple other lines that go up the parking lot face and via the eye.  It’s pretty easy to find, as it’s just off Needles Highway at the Needles Eye tunnel.

V1:  5.10  Stand in the parking lot, and look up for a bolt.  Climb up and clip it, then continue up and left to a stance where you can sling a horn.  From there, head up the arête.  Its only 5.5 type climbing, but there is no gear for a long way up.  Rule #1 don’t fall.  At the horizontal there are a few pins.  Back the pins up with some small cams.  Follow the pins to the right and top out.

V2:  5.8  Standing below the Needles Eye near the guard rail, look down.  The start of the route is below you.  Hike around the spire and gear up.  There is one crack to place a few pieces in before you arrive at the stance before the arête.  Once there, follow the run out to the top as in V1.

Gear:  A few cams and long runners.  Rope drag and runouts don’t mix.

Descent:  Double rope rap from anchors on the top.

Warning:  Rock Climbing can be dangerous.  Use this information at your own risk.