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 First free climbed by Fritz Wiessner in 1937 during his yearly travels, Climbing Devils Tower National Monument is a goal of many of our guest and one of the greatest traditional crack climbing areas in the world. The cracks form between the large hexagonal columns which make up the tower. Climbing routes range from 5.7 to 5.13 and are one to 7 pitches long. Tower cracks come in every shape and size. The Durrance route is the most popular due to its listing in the 50 Classic Climbs and is considered by many to be the easiest route to the top. Because of this, it is often quite busy on a summer day.
Let Sylvan Rocks Guide you to the top of Devils Tower.
Devils Tower Guided Climbing
If you are going to climb at Devils Tower on your own, make sure you take a good selection of climbing gear (nuts, camming units and plenty of slings). The pitches can be quite long and often eat up your rack before you get to the end. Many of the more popular climbing routes have bolted belay stations, but don’t count on it. Expect the route ratings to be hard for the grade (especially on a hot summer day).
If climbing on your own or with Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service, plan to stop and talk to the friendly climbing rangers or at the rock climbing registration station before you head up. The National Park Service likes to keep track of how many climbers are enjoying the area and where they are going. Talking to the rangers and reading the signs at the kiosk is important. We all need to follow the rules if we want to continue climbing here. It’s a good way to check the weather and get good route and rap info before you head out. Even if you are just hiking around on the boulders above the tourist trail, registration is required.
Because parking is rather limited at the Devils Tower Visitor Center, climbers are asked to park their vehicles in the lower gravel parking lot. To get there, hang a right at the stop sign just as you are about to enter the main visitor center parking lot.
If starting or ending early or late or during the off season you can register at the self-registration kiosk located in the center of the parking lot at the base of the Tower. During regular business hours the visitor center is open for questions and assistance, but don’t count on the non climbing rangers to know everything about climbing the Tower. Do your route research before you arrive, or plan on climbing with a guide.
 Click the pic to learn about the first woman to climb Devils Tower.
The June Voluntary Climbing Closure
Long before climbers found their way to the area the American Indians regarded Devils Tower as a sacred place. June and the summer solstice are considered by many to be a sacred time at the Tower and ceremonies are often held during this time. Some of these visitors perceive climbing on the Tower as a desecration to their sacred site.
The Climbing Management Plan and the June Voluntary Climbing Closure are set up as a means to mitigate the desires and rights of both climbers who worship the Tower by climbing on it, and those who hold the site sacred in other ways. The National Park Service has decided to advocate this closure in order to promote understanding and encourage respect for the culture of American Indian tribes who are closely affiliated with the Tower as a sacred site. The June closure is considered to be a success by the National Park Service in that it has resulted in an 80% reduction in the number of climbers for the month. The Access Fund fully supports the voluntary closure and the Climbing Management Plan at Devils Tower.
June is a great time to enjoy the granite face climbing of the Needles in Custer State Park, and Mount Rushmore. These areas are known throughout the world for the terrific summits and pure face climbing. They are near the town of Custer, SD only a 2 hour drive from Devils Tower. In addition, the limestone of Spearfish Canyon is quickly becoming a sport climbing Mecca of its own.
As with most rock climbing areas, make sure that you have done what is needed to be self sufficient in the event of an emergency. Devils Tower National Monument does not have a vertical rescue team. If something does happen, please help those around you get to safety and call 911 if you can. Devils Tower is in the middle of nowhere, expertise and rescue personnel may take hours to arrive if they are available at all.
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Carry first aid kits and water.
- Do not count on cell service out there.
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WEAR Climbing HELMETS, as there is a lot of loose rock that falls off Devils Tower.
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Make sure that you know exactly where rappel route are and how long of climbing ropes are needed to use them.
- Take care to prevent ropes from jamming in cracks when pulled.
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Follow Leave No Trace ethics and plan to pack your poop out!
Prairie Falcons also call Devils Tower Home.
During the spring there is often a closure of routes surrounding their nesting sites. The Falcon Closure often runs from March to July. Once the young have fledged the routes will be re-opened to rock climbing.
Devils Tower Climbing Routes:
Devils Tower Routes 5.7 - 5.8
Durrance
TAD
El Cracko Diablo
Devils Tower Routes 5.9 - 5.10
Soler
Tulgey Wood
El Matador
Broken Tree
Assembly Line
Devils Tower Routes 5.11 and up
Mr. Clean
Contact us to plan your climbing trip to Devils Tower, WY.
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Devils Tower Climbing 
