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This route is a total classic. If it started on the ground, it might be my
favorite Devils Tower Route. Its long, its long and its long. To get there, find your way around to the
north face approach and climb one of the routes that lead to the teachers
lounge such as, Broken Tree, or New Wave.
Pitch 1. 5.9 At the
left side of the Teachers lounge start with finger jams and take advantage of
the stem in the right facing corner. The
crack slowly gets wider as you climb.
It’s a long pitch, take plenty of gear and remember to stop and put it
in. It ends at a good sized ledge to the
left of the crack. There is a 2 bolt
anchor to clip into and relax.
Many people rap from here but some finish up on the long 5.7
widish crack to the left. Climb for
about 175’ and set an anchor. Be very
careful of loose rock, as there are always people below you on the North
Shoulder.
Gear: Standard rack
of stoppers with multiples of cams in the 1-3 inch range. Make sure you ration your gear or you may
risk running out.
Rap: If you summit Devils Tower, take any of the many rappels from the top. If you rap from atop the pitch, there will be two double rope raps to get you back to terra firma.
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Devils Tower Climbing 
