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Tad - Devils Tower Climbing 5.7
Tad was fist climbed in 1956 with some aid, and first free climbed in 1973 by Dave Gallager and Jack Morehead. It is a popular warm up for those aspiring to climb Soler on Devils Tower South East corner, and many would say it is the easiest route to the top of Devils Tower, as it involves the least fifth class climbing. The slippery south face approach and the loose meadows climbing should be respected though.
Approach: To get there, park at the Devils Tower Visitor center and
take the Tower Trail around to the right. At the wood stake ladder
viewing area head up the Bolwing alley trail (aka Devils Tower South Face Approach) . Once at the base of the
tower find the shelf/the ramp that leads around right towards Soler and
the climbing routes on the South East Side of Devils Tower. Towards
the end there is a very airy traverse that you should respect, as a
fall here would get you a quick trip back to the trail, a 100+ feet
below. Don't be afraid to offer/accept a rope and belay to/from your
friends. Once down in the little belay spot under Soler, move up and
right about 4 cracks and start climbing.
Pitch 1) 120' of classic Devils Tower crack climbing. Move 2 cracks right of the Soler corner and start climbing and placing cams and stoppers. Make a gear anchor about 120' out on a small ledge.
Pitch 2) 150' Hand jams and larger take you to the Meadows. Bring 1 Black Diamond #4 or 2 if you don't like to walk your gear up with you.
Belay from a trad anchor. Watch for loose rock and dirt at the upper
belay and near the rappel station. There is also a fairly large boulder that
was losened by a lighning bolt that hit Devils Tower in the summer of
2007 that should be avoided.
You can continue up to the top of the Tower via the Meadows and rap any way you like from the top.
Gear: Standard tower rack with stoppers
and cams to the 4-5 inch size
Rap: If you choose to rap via the
Exetnsions climbing route anchors, the
station is located right of the top out on a big bolder, and will
take you back to your gear at the base of the climbing route. There
are
several variations on which anchors can be used and how long your ropes
need to be for this rap. It is possilbe to rappel this way with one
rope. As
always, be careful not to rappel off the end of your climbing rope.
If you goto the top of Devils Tower Via the Meadows, all the normal rap
options apply, and 2 ropes or a 70 Meter rope is needed.
Contact us to go climb Devils Tower National Monument.
Warning: Rock Climbing can be dangerous. Use this information at your own
risk.
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Devils Tower Climbing 
