El Cracko Diablo 5.8 - Devils Tower

El Cracko Diablo - 5.8 Devils Tower Climbing

The 'crack of the devil,' on Devils Tower was first climbed by Rod Johnson and Pat Padden in 1973. They probably used Hexes rather then cams, so if you want a true wide crack rock climbing adventure, leave your spring loaded camming devices at home. As for me I'll take a full selection with some extras on the large end for the wide crack climbing.

Approach: To get there, park at the Devils Tower Visitor center and take the Tower Trail around to the right. At the wood stake ladder viewing area head up the Bolwing alley trail. Once at the base of the tower find the shelf/the ramp that leads around right towards Soler and the climbing routes on the South East Side of Devils Tower. Towards the end there is a very airy traverse that you should respect, as a fall here would get you a quick trip back to the trail, a 100+ feet below. Don't be afraid to offer/accept a rope and belay to/from your friends. Once down in the little belay spot under Soler, move up and right about 4 cracks and start climbing.

Pitch 1) 120' of 5.7 climbing. Start on the face a few feet right of the crack then step left and jam up the 120' Devils Tower climb that eventually moves out right again on a ledge system and anchor bolts. It is a semi hanging belay.

Pitch 2) 150' of 5.8 climbing. A little face climbing leads you back to the crack where you will enjoy some wideness in which to place your big gear. Depending on your comfort level and hand size, some might rate this pitch 5.9.

Belay at the rap anchor bolts atop of the route Extension located on a large boulder to the right. Watch for loose rock and dirt at the upper belay and rappel station. There is also a fairly large boulder that was losened by a lighning bolt that hit Devils Tower in the summer of 2007 that should be avoided.

You can continue up to the top of the Tower via the Meadows and rap any way you like from the top.

Gear: Standard tower rack with stoppers and cams to the 4-5 inch size

Rap: If you choose to rap via the Exetnsions climbing route anchors, the station is located one crack to the right on a big bolder, and will take you back to your gear at the base of the climbing route. There are several variations on which anchors can be used and how long your ropes need to be for this rap. It is possilbe to rappel this way with one rope. As always, be careful not to rappel off the end of your climbing rope. If you goto the top of Devils Tower Via the Meadows, all the normal rap options apply, and 2 ropes or a 70 Meter rope is needed.

Warning: Rock Climbing can be dangerous. Use this information at your own risk.

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