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Station 13, 5.7

This particular Cathedral Spire was one of the mapping points used, by Jan and Herb Conn to make a map of the Spires in Custer State Park.  They were great Black Hills Map makers and even made a clay model of the Cathedral Spires one long South Dakota winter.  From the hairpin curve parking lot below the Needles Eye tunnel on the Needles Highway, hike up the Cathedral Spires trail approximately 25 minutes.  Veer right past Spire One up some adventure walking terrain and just before you enter the 2-3 gully veer left along the trail to the base of Station 13.  There are several routes now found on the this Spire, but Jan and Herb originally climbed a wide looking trad crack/chimney to the lower summit, then up the left side.

 

When Jan and Herb asked the Custer State Park Superintendent if they could climb there back in the day he replied "we have Mountain Goats, we might as well have Mountain Climbers."  Now the rock climbers are one of the Black Hills attractions which visitors enjoy watching. 

 

P1  Climb the off width chimney to the lower summit and build a belay with traditional climbing gear.

P2  The Conn's originally went to the right past a crappy pin to a run out pitch.  The more common route is a little harder, but better protected and more fun.  Climb to the left past a bolt to the summit.  Use a long sling to clip the bolt.

 

Descent: 2 rope rappel from the anchor to Terra-firma

Rack:  Lite rack with some bigish climbing gear. 

 

Warning:  Rock Climbing can be dangerous.  Use this information at your own risk. 

 

 
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