Spire 4 (The Worm Hole), 5.4

You can see the Badlands , Harney Peak, and all of Custer State Park from the top of Spire 4

Approach this climbing route from the north side of the Cathedral Spires in Custer State Park. Hike up the Cathedral Spires trail then veer right up the slope near Spire One. Before you enter the 2-3 gully, head left on a well worn path that leads in front of Station 13. The approach pitch starts at the base of a tall Black Hills Spruce tree. Watch for loose rock on this Needles Classic.

P1: The entrance pitch is around 5.0 and leads up to some beefy rap chains in the 3-4 gully. Once there turn around and walk up the hallway that leads to spire 4.

P2: The original route ascended by Jan and Herb Conn in 1948 led up the chimney on suspect rock. Before reaching the overhang formed by several chock stones, move left onto a 5.4 face (more scary then it sounds) and climb on top of the overhang to another anchor. The route most commonly taken now was "built" by Jan and Herb on their descent. Jan pulled a rock out of a hole and they were able to climb down through. This "wormhole" is now great fun to watch your friends wiggle through. You gotta love the struggle, moans and groans.

You just think you won' t fit - Black Hills

P3: From the anchors head back into the hallway and up left via easy 4th class terrain. The Conns took the wide chimney, but most parties now climb up the face with a crack on the left, place a smallish cam or nut on a LONG sling at a high spot then do an exciting step across to the summit anchor and register. Of course the view of Custer State Park, Harney Peak and even the Badlands is great!

You want me to do WHAT? Black Hills Climbing

Rap: P3 one rope, P2 Double ropes to ground...P1 entrance pitch 1 rope to the tree.

Gear: Lite rack up to a #2 camalot and some long draws

Warning: Rock Climbing can be dangerous. Use this information at your own risk.

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