Soler, 5.9 at Devils Tower

This Devils Tower classic is surely the finest finger and hand crack of its grade.  Do it when its cold out and you need some sun.  If you chose to climb it during the summer, do so very early in the morning before the sun hits.  The routes name comes from Tony Soler, who was on the first ascent party in 1959, but it could come from the super heat Devils Tower gets during the summer climbing season.   To get there, take the tower trail around the base of Devils Tower to the right.  Take the Bowling Alley trail up to the base of the tower, then skirt the base to the right on the bench.  Follow this ledge around and over an exposed section then down climb to a great little belay area.

Pitch 1: Devils Tower 5.9 about 150’ long.  Stack your rope, rack up your traditional climbing gear, and start crack climbing up the right facing dihedral.  Climbing gear up to a #3.5 Friend protects everything to the bolted hanging belay.  The route is sustained, but secure.

Pitch 2:  Devils Tower 5.9 about 100’ long.  From the hanging belay start jamming your way to the top of this great Devils Tower crack climb.  Rumor has it that this pitch is the crux, but because it is shorter, I’d really say they are pretty even.  At the top of the crack systems you will find a series of ledges.  When you are comfortable, build an anchor out of trad gear.  You can also climb to the anchor bolts of Hollywood & Vine. From there you can top out Devils Tower via the Meadows Route to the summit. If you don’t want to summit Devils Tower you can move right and rappel via the El Cracko route back to the East Bench where you started.

Climbing Rack:  Standard Rack up to a #3 Friend.  Take plenty of gear.

Note - During a summer of 2007 a bolt of lightning struck the Tower near the top of Soler and caused some large rocks to become unstable.  The National Park Service at Devils Tower has determined that things are fairly secure again, but be aware of potentialy dangerous conditions for you and parites climbing below if these rocks should fall. 

Contact us to book your Devils Tower Climbing adventure or a stay at Devils Tower Lodge.