El Matador, 5.10 Devils Tower

If you have seen pictures of people rock climbing on Devils Tower, you have probably seen people climbing El Matador.  This unique route will test the Yogi within you with its demanding stemming moves between the two columns that form the stem box.  Tall flexible climbers have the advantage on this route. 

From the Devils Tower Visitors Center, tourist will be watching you rock climb through the telescopes.  Approach through the west face boulder field. 

Pitch 1:  80’ of 5.8.  This approach pitch leads up the meat of the route.  Jam up the right crack to the belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.  A great warm up to a sweet climbing route.

Pitch 2:  140’ of hard 5.10.  Start by jamming the left side of the stem box then as soon as possible, assume the position and spread your legs wide.  This monotonous and continuous pitch can be broken into many sections by resting on your legs while you place gear.  Once you realize that you can trust the stem and hit your groove, it’s really not hard at all, but it is long.  The gear is good clear up the left side exit to the top of the column where you clip into a 2 bolt anchor.  Many people rap from here but you can continue up.

Pitch 3:  50’ of 5.8 climbing.  Take the hand crack to join McCarthy West Face up and right.  At the top of the column you’ll find another 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4:  160’ of 5.10.  Begin in the hand crack then move into the right crack when you can.  Climb through both roofs and in to the chimney above.  The moves through the roofs are the crux.  There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.  

You can continue up to the top of the Tower, but the rock becomes loose in many areas.

Gear:  Standard tower rack with stoppers and Friends to #3.5

Rap:  Depending on how crowded it is, and where people are following you up, rappel via the anchors.

Contact us to go climb Devils Tower National Monument.

Warning:  Rock Climbing can be dangerous.  Use this information at your own risk.