Man standing on top of rocks after climbing.

Sylvan Rocks Blog

Herb Conn dies at 91

Daryl Stisser - Monday, February 06, 2012
A hero to many of us, Herb Conn has climbed his last rock climbing route and explored his last caving lead. On Feb. 1, 2012 he died from natural causes (probably prostate cancer) in his home near Custer, SD.

His smile and spark were strong to the end. His giggle was something to inspire us all. There are few men that combine the humble toughness his achievements attest to with the gentle good nature, and kindness worthy of a true hero.

herd conn photo 


As his friends will attest, Herb was ready to go and knew it was his time. He told me while I was over  at his place chopping firewood last fall that he was not sure anyone needs to live beyond 90 years. He managed to do it in style though. Few people in America live without electricity or running water by choice into their elder years. If you ever feel the need to try this…be sure to secure the devotion of a tough, and loving life partner. I can’t imagine either of the Conns would have been able to do what they did without the other. They were a team to the end. Jan told me that she was reading aloud to Herb while he rested during their last days together. It brings a warm tear to my cheek to recall the vision of Jan standing there in front of the Conn Cave (the name they have for their snug little home), telling me that the end was near, but that…. he still giggled when she read a funny passage.

Jan and Herb always seemed independent to their core. Herb floated through life living simply, leaving only survey marks and summit registers during his time here. If you have followed a Conn route up a Needles Spire and tried to imagine what it must have been like to do it 60 years ago, with only a hand full of pitons, dime-store tennis shoes, and a rope too short to rappel back down (so you’d have to down climb the route as well), it is hard not to be inspired, and empowered by what they did. If you trek into the dark depths of Jewel or Wind Cave following the carbide survey marks of this dynamic duo of yesteryear, you have adventured well!

Since 1948 they have called the southern Black Hills of SD home. They recorded over 220 first ascent summits and explored over 60 miles of Jewel Cave putting it on the map as a world class cave. Jan explained with a grin during an awards presentation that ‘tourism was the last thing on their minds as they explored and adventured back in the day,’ but if you travel where they once went…it is easy to understand the draw. The hidden treasures and beautiful sights they discovered will be sought out by generations of explorers to come.

The Black Hills was a perfect place for Herb’s love of math, maps and adventure. He spent countless hours seeking out places that no human had ever been. He and Jan filled in blank spots on the maps and drew maps of places no one ever dreamed existed.

Herb was no socialite and his isolated existence added to the mystery and romance of this Custer couple. We might well learn more about him post mortem than we knew while he was with us, as people who knew him over the decades share their experiences. One thing everyone seems to agree on, is that he had a beautiful smile, simple presence and sweet giggle…… that cast a spell upon us all.

Jan appears to be doing well and plans to continue living in the Conn cave and in her words "doing a few things Herb might not approve of."  She, like Herb still glows when you see her, and has a zest for life that everyone can love.  We look forward to enjoying new adventures with her.  She said she plans to write a bit about Herb and we hope to post that here too when she gets done with it.

 

Other links

Mountain Project

Rapid City Journal

Caving News

 KDLT news

Super Topo - where I stole the nice photo from

Sylvan Rocks Blog - 1

Sylvan Rocks Blog - 2

John Gill Website


Is it spring yet?

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 29, 2012

Yeah, it's winter...and while it has been pretty nice here all winter, rock climbing time is still pretty limited.  If you have a climbing gym nearby to stay strong, I hope you are using it.  For the rest of us, here is a little video by John Sherman that will help make up for some rusty rock climbing muscles come spring, and get us on the right track for a great season. 

If you hang out around the Black Hills granite climbing areas, you might even see a few places that you have been as he filmed it right here in "Cheyenneville" or is that "John's Town."  Hard to tell....

Enjoy!  Climb Safe!

 

 

What is the Access Fund doing for you?

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 24, 2012

As many of  you know, the Access Fund is a great asses to climbers all across the country.  The Black Hills Climbers Coalition was formed many moons ago as a local chapter of the Access fund and they too hope to keep climbing alive and thriving here in the Black Hills.  We hope you are supporting members with your time and cash of both organizations.

Here is a nice little video of a few projects that the access fund did last year.

Top 10 Victories for the Access Fund in 2011.

  1. Mobilized climbing conservation with the launch of the Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team
  2. Continued to strengthen the grassroots climbing advocacy network by hosting the National Access and Stewardship Summit
  3. Prevented astronomical fee increases for climbing Mount Denali and Rainier
  4. Fought for adequate funding for American parks and public lands
  5. Awarded over $40,000 in grant money to support local climbing access and stewardship
  6. Continued to push federal agencies for a clear policy to allow the use of Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
  7. Expanded the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign to support emergency stewardship action
  8. Raised $75,000 to protect and steward Jailhouse Rock in California
  9. Offered local climbing organizations the opportunity to leverage the infrastructure and administrative capabilities of the Access Fund with joint membership
  10. Brought together individual climbers, leaders in the outdoor industry, and Access Fund board members past and present to celebrate our 20th anniversary

GO CLIMBERS!!!

Indoor MotoCross in Rapid City

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 22, 2012

Went out on the big town of Rapid City last night with my KLR motorcycle gang friends.  Had a great time watching guys rip it up on the Extreme indoor enduro races at the Rapid City Civic Center.

The obstacles were really pretty impressive.  The video below shows most of the track, but after riding through the culvert...they had them go out of the arena, up a couple flights of stairs, through the hallway and back down to the track.  It was wild to watch and I am sure a few of the racers are feeling some pain after last nights efforts. 

Hats off to Jessie Hanson from Rushmore Mountain Sports for racing in a few of the heats.  Glad to see that 2 kids are not slowing him down!

There were tons of wrecks, but I don't think anyone was seriously hurt.  Those big tires were crazy and the rocks and fire wood pile seemed like a sprained ankle or messed up knee waiting to happen.  What were they thinking?

Shot this little video on the new Iphone...pretty wild.

 

Dirtbag?? ...better learn to Dumpster Dive

Daryl Stisser - Friday, January 20, 2012

December, 2011 was a big month for us.  We did 2 things we'd never done before...and were pretty unsure about.  #1  We decided to try a Sams Club Membership.  I know, I can't believe it myself...the evil empire...the Devils House, but darn they have good cheap cheese.   And I can't goto Trader Joe's anywhere in a 5 state area around here, so we'll see how it works out.

 #2  We joined Netflix. Yes, we are a little Luddite like in that way, and plus we have never had a TV so it made it rather hard to enjoy.  We tied these two things together when we watched and highly recommend -   Dive - Living Off Americas Waste the other night, and boy did that bring back some good memories.  The dumpsters all looked the same.  I'm pretty sure we visited a few of the ones shown in years past.  Yes, its true, when we were spending 6 months a year on the road as Dirt Bags, we were Dumpster Divers too.  Cheryl loves a good dive more then most anything else.  Oh Boy...it sends shivers up her spine.  She revels in the randomness of not knowing what you are going to get and making due with what you find.  It was never as though we needed it all, but it was there, and good and just as the folks in the movie say, we felt just in taking and using trash that was otherwise destine to end up in the landfill.

Dive! image 

Our friend Marcus said it best in his thick Boston accent.  "We are living like KINGS....outa da dumpster.  Truffles, here we are eating truffles outa the dumpster....."  and we were.  Glad to see it is still going on.....well, except for the fact that America waste so much food.  We were, and continue to be, amazed at all the waste.  Around here, the pickings are a little slim, but in the big cities there are bigger supermarkets, less locked dumpsters, and TONS AND TONS of food is tossed every night.  The movie said we waste 50% of the food in this country, and after living like kings outa the dumpster for months on end, I believe it, and can tell you that the footage in the movie is totally accurate. Just take a minute to think about that. You and I waste half of the food that is produced.  All the hungry people here in South Dakota......across America and around the world, and we are wasting 50% of the food we produce.  Amazing.  I recall one night we garbage picked something like 58 logs of perfectly good goat cheese.  The stuff was top shelf.  Really good.  The type of thing we really liked, but would have never spent money on for even one log.   And we ate and gave it away and ate and ate it as fast as we could.  It kept well, but in the end, we had that dilemma, we could not use or give away all it before some went bad.  It pained us to throw some of it away....even though we tried to remember that it had been trash once already.  Crazy world we live in.  So if you get a chance....take a Dive.  Enjoy the food and the flix. 

The trailer below is good, the whole documentary is better.  Watch it....think about it.

 

Dive! Trailer from Compeller Pictures on Vimeo.

 

 

Dirt Bag Lifer

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Ran across this video from a FaceBook Friend.  It pretty well sums things up.  Live Simply and you can get by climbing for a lot of years.  Dirtbagging is something you have to give yourself to in order for it to work though.  If you aspire to do something else, that aspiration will eat at you and make it hard to fritter your time away in the middle of nowhere doing nothing but climbing and living the good life....., but if all you want to live for is the next sunset after a solid day of cranking..... being a dirtbag can pay huge dividends.  I've been there, I hung out with Alf a time or 2.  I met some awesome people, and climbed like a crazy man, but I was just a visitor to that lifestyle.  I was unable to cut loose and be that happy go lucky bum.  I look back at some of the chacters we met along the way and smile.  I know that a lot of them have, like Cheryl and I, moved on to more "adult" like lifestyles.  A few are still drifting down the highways to the next crag.  I knew a punk who kept all his earthly belongings in "that pile".....now he is gunna be fireman of the year or something crazy like that...house, wife, kids...the whole deal.   Crazy how things work out.  So as I get ready for another adventure, it warms my heart to think about all the friends and good times.   Cheers to all of you, all the places we went, the adventures we had, and friendship we shared.  Thanks for the good times.

 

 I hope you enjoy this video as much as I did.  LINK TO ALF SHOWING OFF "A DESERT LIFE" ON VIEMO.  DONE RIGHT AND WELL PUT TOGETHER BY Austin Siadak

 

Black Hills Tubing Madness

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 15, 2012

You know... people always say that climbing is dangerous... then they gladly go out an do things like tubing.

 

 

I mean...yes, it's great fun for the whole family, but way outa control. 

Go check it out.  Have fun and tell me how it was.  I'll be here by my cube heater thinking about rock climbing in a warm place....or maybe ice climbing in a cold place....or maybe just heading to the beach.  Everyone needs some winter vacation time.

Logging

Daryl Stisser - Thursday, January 12, 2012

"Momma...don't let your babies grow up to be"..... loggers.  Don't let them cut trees down and swing those big saws....."make them be doctors and lawyers and such."  Cheryl and I have been out cutting trees on some friends land in an effort to slow the march of the mountain pine beetle there.  I have learned how hard it is to swing a chainsaw all day tipping over big beautiful..... soon to be dead ....pine trees.  With any luck though, some of the logs might find their way to the saw mill rather than getting chunked up into little pieces and left to rot.  If you need fire wood...boy do I have a deal for you.  I'll let you know where there is more wood then you can haul.

 I am not sure that this any of this work will do much to slow the infestation even on this little plot, but we feel like we are doing what we can.   With 455+ marked trees...the process seems endless, but believe it or not, the end is in sight.  There have been 3-4 of us working on it for a few weeks, and just like anything else....it happens one step, or tree at a time.  Most importantly, nobody has gotten hurt yet, and we hope to keep it that way. 

Chainsaw Cheryl 

I tip them, Cheryl chunks them.

Chainsaw madness 

The little saw that could.

slaying trees makes cheryl sad 

Tipping trees makes the Lorax sad.

Tree tipper 

Pretty crazy the speed of change one person and a chainsaw can cause in a few minutes.  My 20 inch bar was barely long enough to slay some of these monsters.  They have seen lots of change in their lives just as I will no doubt continue to see more change in my short lifetime.

Visit Mount Rushmore without leaving your desk.

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Check out the new Mount Rushmore 3D computer models on the CyArk website.  I've had the opportunity to stand on George Washingtons head, and that was perhaps better then all the info I found on the new 3D mapping website, but I must admit, having all the world heritage sites laser scanned is pretty rad.

me standing on top of mount rushmore 

 Here is the official press release from the NPS.   Release Date: January 10, 2012

Launch of 3D Digital Portal Allows Virtual Access to Mount Rushmore
National Memorial

 

KEYSTONE, SD: Mount Rushmore announces the launch of a new digital portal,
http://archive.cyark.org/mount-rushmore-national-memorial-intro.  Beginning January 10, online visitors will have access to 3D models created through an innovative laser scanning process.

The digital portal features an array of rich multimedia material including an interactive virtual tour of the Memorial, navigable and measurable 3D “point cloud” models comprised of the billions of points collected by the laser scanners, and a large collection of historic photographs.

“With this innovative web portal, internet users around the world will be able to remotely access the Memorial, whether it is to plan a visit or to virtually explore unusual areas such as the Hall of Records,” said Superintendent Cheryl Schreier .

In May 2010, the National Park Service (NPS) collaborated with the Kacyra Family Foundation and CyArk, a non-profit organization dedicated to digitally preserving cultural heritage sites around the world, and the Center for Digital Documentation and Visualisation, a partnership between Historic Scotland and the Glasgow School of Art. The laser scanning project also owes its success to important contributions from Respec Engineering, and Wyss and Associates, who worked to develop a geo-referenced control network that was used to tie all the laser scan data together.

CyArk founder, Ben Kacyra, said, “It is an honor for our organization to digitally preserve such an important monument to the American spirit for generations to come. The CyArk website gives free access to users across the globe, allowing them to experience Mount Rushmore alongside other culturally significant world heritage sites.” A variety of sites at Mount Rushmore National Memorial were laser scanned and photographed to capture the Memorial and create a highly accurate digital model. The resulting information was used in the development of media for physical preservation work, education and virtual visits.

Watch the portal for scanned data utilized in forthcoming projects including a collection of K-12 lesson plans available for download to use in the classroom. Lesson plans were developed during an education workshop bringing together the expertise of local high school math and art educators, NPS, and CyArk. Also in development is a new on-site exhibit at the Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center where visitors will learn about the digital preservation process, see the equipment used as part of the laser scanning project, and explore the digital archive.

For further information regarding activities and events at Mount Rushmore National Memorial, please visit the park’s website at www.nps.gov/moru. To learn more about the CyArk organization contact Elizabeth Lee, Elizabeth.lee@cyark.org at 510-832-5440.

Change in South Dakota

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 08, 2012

Change on a landscape scale is difficult for us short lived humans to see and understand sometimes.  It is happing in the Black Hills with the Mountain Pine Beetle infestation.  If you have seen the brown pine trees spreading across the hills you have seen the result of the Mountain Pine Beetle passing through.  Something else is happening in South Dakota. 

The prairies of eastern South Dakota have long been known for awesome pheasant hunting.  As some of you know, I have been learning to hunt over the past few seasons.  I have had such a great time laughing and traveling with friends chasing birds.  It of course saddens me greatly to think that I may have already seen my greatest hunting seasons.  An article in the Kansas City Star does a great job of sharing some of the causes of why the prairies that make such good hunting and great wildlife habitat are being plowed up to grow food and fuel for a world that is exploding in population.

One comment I disliked in this article was how it singled out farmers of being greedy.  I think it is unfair to put that blame on only farmers as they are just doing what our society expects of them.  They are succeeding in business.  Unless you are the type to live off the grid growing your own food and not having any children....every one of us shares the blame for vast prairies being plowed under to create food.  Anyhow, I will let you read and judge for yourself.  Article Link.


SR Climbing School Blog

Is it spring yet?

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 29, 2012

Yeah, it's winter...and while it has been pretty nice here all winter, rock climbing time is still pretty limited.  If you have a climbing gym nearby to stay strong, I hope you are using it.  For the rest of us, here is a little video by John Sherman that will help make up for some rusty rock climbing muscles come spring, and get us on the right track for a great season. 

If you hang out around the Black Hills granite climbing areas, you might even see a few places that you have been as he filmed it right here in "Cheyenneville" or is that "John's Town."  Hard to tell....

Enjoy!  Climb Safe!

 

 

Red Rocks Climbing area threat

Daryl Stisser - Saturday, August 06, 2011
From the American Mountain Guides Assoc.

Fellow Climbers:

If you love Red Rocks, please read on.

If you've ever climbed at Red Rocks (who hasn't?), you understand how real the development pressure to this unique area has been in the last many years.  The Las Vegas suburb of Summerlin has now reached the very edge of the conservation area.  Some of us remember the days (only 15 years ago) when it was a long semi-rural drive from the edge of town to Red Rocks.  But at least for now, development has stopped from that direction and is still relatively far and largely out of sight from the cliffs and canyons we love.

That is about to change.

If local developer Jim Rhodes gets his way, the entire Blue Diamond Hill (the massive hill at the center of the RR cirque, that forms the foreground of the view from anywhere at Red Rocks, and the backdrop to the BLM campground, and is currently completely undeveloped) will become a brand new town of 5,000+ homes and about 15,000 residents, complete with shopping malls, schools, etc.  An official plan has recently been submitted to the county by the developers: it effectively puts a brand new mid-size city right in the middle of the conservation area.

rrdevelopment

The distance between the escarpment and the closest modern developments will drop from the current 10 miles to less than 3.5 miles.  This translates to an increase in the light and noise pollution by a factor of more than 8, not even accounting for the buffer effect played by the currently undeveloped hill!  If this plan goes forward, you may not even need a headlamp anymore for those early morning approaches to Resolution Arete!

For more details about the history of this situation, please see the first two references below.

On August 17 at 9AM, the Clark County Zoning Commission will meet to approve/disapprove this plan.

Opposition to the plan (www.saveredrock.com) has to date remained localized around the small town of Blue Diamond and local Las Vegas newspapers, largely due to a lack of information among the larger community.
 
Because climbers are uniquely attached to this area, I believe they are the most likely group to stand up for its preservation.  For the last few weeks, some of us have been trying to spread the word within the climbing community.  A public outcry to the officials involved, particularly if coming from the entire nation, may have a good chance of changing the outcome and saving this unique area.

Here's what you can do (in order of decreasing urgency, but remember, the key decision will be made on August 17, so there are only a few days to act):

1.      Call or write e-mails to Clark county commissioners:
         Do this now, and certainly before August 15!  See contact information below.
2.      Ask your friends to do the same: please forward this e-mail to all your friends!
3.      Sign the petition
4.      Send e-mails to congressmen and the BLM
5.      If you live reasonably close to Vegas, be at the Clark County zoning commission meeting
         on August 17, and either speak up or wear/carry evidence of your position on the issue.

Please ACT!

On behalf of the future of Red Rocks: thank you!
Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti.

APPENDICES

Contact Information:

Clark county commissioners:
All commissioners can be reached by phone at: (702) 455-3500
All commissioners can receive faxes at: (702) 455-3271
Clark County Commissioners, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV 89155
Steve Sisolak, District A, ccdista@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Tom Collins, District B, ccdistb@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Larry Brown, District C, ccdistc@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Lawrence Weekly, District D, ccdistd@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Chris Giunchigliani, District E, ccdiste@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Susan Brager, District F, ccdistf@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Mary Beth Scow, District G, ccdistg@ClarkCountyNV.gov

BLM Southern Nevada District Office:
Mary Jo Rugwell, District Manager,
4701 North Torrey Pines Drive
Las Vegas, NV 89130
Phone: 702-515-5000
Fax: 702-515-5023
Email: lvfoweb@blm.gov

NV Congressmen/women: (even if you don't live in NV, it doesn't mean you shouldn't contact them)
Senator Harry Reid (D- NV), 202-224-3542, http://reid.senate.gov/contact/index.cfm
Senator Dean Heller (R- NV), 202-224-6244, heller.senate.gov/contact_form.cfm
Representative Shelley Berkley (D-01), 202-225-5965, shelley.berkley@mail.house.gov
Representative Joe Heck (R-03), 202-225-3252, https://heck.house.gov/contact-me/email-me

Upcoming Clark County Zoning Commission meeting:

August 17 (Wednesday), 9:00 a.m.,
Clark County Government Building, Commission Chambers
Government Center, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV.

Suggested key points for use in e-mails to officials:
  • Red Rocks is a National Conservation Area, of considerable interest to all Americans and foreign tourists, with a unique oasis-like flora and fauna and amazing scenery.
  • Red Rocks is a world-renowned climbing area, visited each year by thousands of climbers from the US and abroad.  Those climbers spend their time and money at Red Rocks because of its unique beauty and undeveloped character.
  • Contrary to biased assertions in the developer's plan, the proposed development is in plain unobstructed view from most of the hiking and climbing locales in the Red Rocks NRA.  The top of the Blue Diamond hill is in fact the most immediately scenic feature from these places.
  • There are plenty of remaining areas available for development in the Las Vegas valley.  The Red Rock Canyon NRA is a unique resource to the people of Las Vegas and visitors from all over and it must be preserved
References and Links:

"Rhodes submits revised plan for developing Blue Diamond Hill," By Scott Wyland, Las Vegas Review-Journal, July 7, 2011.  http://www.lvrj.com/news/rhodes-submits-revised-plan-125130408.html

"Jim Rhodes is Coming: his homes will rise in Red Rock, but how sprawling is the developer's secret plan?" by Jason Whited, Las Vegas City Life, February 24, 2011,  http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2011/02/24/news/local_news/iq_42408246.txt

The developer's plan, ironically titled "Gypsum Reclamation Concept Plan", Gypsum Resources, LLC, June 29, 2011, http://www.reviewjournal.com/media/download/rhodes_plan.pdf

Website of the local action group: www.saveredrock.com

Mountainproject.com thread about the issue: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red-rock-threatened-by-development/107227001

SuperTopo.com thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1565955/Red-Rocks-under-imminent-threat-of-development

Falling Rock adopt a crag was a great success

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, June 07, 2011

I am a little late, but many THANKS  to everyone who was out there last month during the Falling Rock Adopt a Crag that was put on in conjunction with the Black Hills National Forest and the Access Fund.

 Piece by piece, a huge truck of trash was hoisted up from the bottom and hauled away during a snowy cold miserable day.  Word of the great amounts of trash picked up and work completed has spread and the Johnson Siding VFD wants to help next year. Area residents saw the climbers out there working and sent in thanks.  This is the kind of good PR and support climbers need to continue our access to the climbing areas we love.  The Black Hills National Forest managers really notice when clubs, and individual users pitch in and help out.  With over a million acres to manage, the FS cannot be everywhere at once and cannot keep up with the impacts of so many recreational user groups as well as mining, grazing and timber programs to manage.

Members of The Black Hills Climbers Coalition will be out there next year....hauling up more trash that was tossed down the cliff by the general public.  The BHCC hopes to make this popular place on the forest a little more of a beautiful place to be enjoyed by everyone.  So if you love the Black Hills National Forest, please plan to attend and do your part.

Three cheers to all that helped out!!!

Road to Devils Tower now open

Daryl Stisser - Monday, June 06, 2011
Just a quick note, that the road between Devils Tower and Sundance, WY is open again.  It is one lane with a stop light.  So I think Crook County is up to 2 stop lights in the county now.  Have fun, climb lots.

The last spire climbed.

Daryl Stisser - Wednesday, June 01, 2011
Jim Slichter, a long time Black Hills Climber, has finally finished climbing all the recorded Cathedral Spires in Custer State Park.  A climb called Kampsite was the last one on his list, and the photo below shows him on the top.  It took him 35 years to complete the project.  Let the media frenzy, fame, and fortune begin!  Cheryl is only a few spires away from being done with all the named and a few unnamed Cathedral Spires as well...so glad Jim inspired her to start, but beat her to the finish.

Congrats Jim!!!

Face Book Comment from Jim.   -After 35 years, I finally got them all done. Thanks to my many partners over the years - Mark, Dennis, Gary, Tom, Rich, Chris, et al

Photo by Christopher Pelczarski




Road to Devils Tower closed due to landslide

Daryl Stisser - Monday, May 30, 2011
Highway US 14, the road leading to Devils Tower from Sundance Wyoming experienced a landslide and is currently closed.  With all the rain the Black Hills of South Dakota and north east Wyoming have had this spring...things are falling apart.  So if you plan to go rock climbing at Devils Tower, plan to drive in from another direction.

The official word from Wyoming DOT

Please be advised: US14 between Sundance and Jct of US14 and WY24 is CLOSED due to landslide at milepost 185. No estimated opening date. Use alternate route.

Photo posted by Lindsay S.

image of landslide


Loose boulders on Devils Tower

Daryl Stisser - Friday, May 27, 2011
Went to Devils Tower yesterday (May 27, 2011) for our annual Staff Training day and to check out the conditions on a few of the popular routes we guide.  Discovered that Pseudo Weissners has a few HUGE blocks that are just about ready to fall out due to the wet wet wet spring we have had here.  These boulders were buried in soil at the end of last season and seemed quiet stable.  Now they are just held on by their weight and a small lip of rock.  So it is easy to imagine an unsuspecting climber knocking them loose, and making them fall straight onto the Bowling Alley where there are often many climbers racking up gear or rappelling or just hiking through.

While it would be more then a climbing helmet could protect you from if one of these boulders hit you...it reconfirms that helmets are required equipment for visiting Devils Tower if you plan to rock climb there.

Best day ever.

Daryl Stisser - Wednesday, May 18, 2011
So think back... What was your best day ever???

Hard to choose just one right?  We'll Dan from Iowa, recently shared a drawing with me that his son Ian (8yo) had drawn of his "best day ever."   I thought it was rad.







This picture pretty much sums up why we do what we do here at the climbing school.  Dan (Ians dad) climbed Devils Tower with us, and his family has been out with us a few times.  I'm psyched that Dan and Heather learned to climb, and shared it with their family.   Rock climbing is not for everyone, but for those of us that love it,  rock climbing is what gets us up in the morning.  It's the flair in life that keeps us going.    It's a great way to forget about the cares of the world and relax for awhile.  To share that passion with our guest in the hope that they will "get it" by the time they leave is why we do the work we do.  Rocks, trees, fresh air, and passionate people...that is what climbing is all about.

Hopefully this is just the beginning of a lifetime of adventures for Ian.

Dan and Ian...keep climbing, and we'll look forward to seeing you next time you are out.

Devils Tower sets Climbing Route Closures for Falcons

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, May 15, 2011
It is that time of year again when the Falcons at Devils Tower start doing their thing...if you know what I mean.  Nesting and all.  So the park staff have spotted them on the west side and closed a few rock climbing routes there until the Falcons are done with their business.   It's an annual affair at Devils Tower.  Click here to read more from the press release.

Also remember, the June Voluntary climbing closure is coming right up.  So if you want to reserve a climbing trip to Devils Tower, call soon.

.

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course DATE CHANGE

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Its that time of year again.

Sylvan Rocks Climbing School will be hosting a Single Pitch Instructor Course - In June - Currently considering June 19-20-21 at Custer State Park. This course has been developed by the American Mountain Guides Assoc. to help transition climbers into guides. If you are interested in becoming a rock climbing guide or working with camps or youth groups this might be perfect for you.

Possible Exam dates of June 27 and 28 depending on interest.   

Check out the Overview below and visit the AMGA website for complete info - http://amga.com/programs/SPI.php

To sign up for the course please contact Matt Mieczkowski
matt.mieczkowski@gmail.com

Cost for the course is $475.  Exam cost is $290

If you want to take this course, we are currently able to schedule around your dates, as folks who signed up for the May Course backed out.

SPI Course Overview

The following three day outline is the standard progression for the SPI Course. Your course may have a different daily schedule and it is acceptable for Program Providers to do this as long as the entire curriculum is covered in your course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum on your course but must not omit pieces. SPI Program providers must make it clear when they are teaching outside the curriculum and should not evaluate beyond the curriculum. The course is normally run over three consecutive nine hour days but as long as all the curriculum is covered over 27 hours the course could be run over separate weekends or even as a semester class.
Day 1

Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
Session 2: Professionalism
Session 3: Equipment
Session 4: Knots and Hitches
Session 5: Belaying
Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
Session 7: Teaching
End of Day Debriefs

Day 2

Session 8: The Climbing Site
Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
Session 10: Base Managed Sites
Session 11: Assistance Skills - Base Managed Sites
Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
End of Day Debriefs

Day 3

Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
Session 14: Top Managed Sites
Session 15: Lowering
Session 16: Assistance Skills - Top Managed Sites
Session 17: Rappelling
Session 18: Climbing Movement
Session 19: Review Sessions
Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Pre-Requisites for Single Pitch Instructor Course

You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:

Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.

Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.

Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.

Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).

Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).

Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.

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