Man standing on top of rocks after climbing.

Sylvan Rocks Blog

Herb Conn dies at 91

Daryl Stisser - Monday, February 06, 2012
A hero to many of us, Herb Conn has climbed his last rock climbing route and explored his last caving lead. On Feb. 1, 2012 he died from natural causes (probably prostate cancer) in his home near Custer, SD.

His smile and spark were strong to the end. His giggle was something to inspire us all. There are few men that combine the humble toughness his achievements attest to with the gentle good nature, and kindness worthy of a true hero.

herd conn photo 


As his friends will attest, Herb was ready to go and knew it was his time. He told me while I was over  at his place chopping firewood last fall that he was not sure anyone needs to live beyond 90 years. He managed to do it in style though. Few people in America live without electricity or running water by choice into their elder years. If you ever feel the need to try this…be sure to secure the devotion of a tough, and loving life partner. I can’t imagine either of the Conns would have been able to do what they did without the other. They were a team to the end. Jan told me that she was reading aloud to Herb while he rested during their last days together. It brings a warm tear to my cheek to recall the vision of Jan standing there in front of the Conn Cave (the name they have for their snug little home), telling me that the end was near, but that…. he still giggled when she read a funny passage.

Jan and Herb always seemed independent to their core. Herb floated through life living simply, leaving only survey marks and summit registers during his time here. If you have followed a Conn route up a Needles Spire and tried to imagine what it must have been like to do it 60 years ago, with only a hand full of pitons, dime-store tennis shoes, and a rope too short to rappel back down (so you’d have to down climb the route as well), it is hard not to be inspired, and empowered by what they did. If you trek into the dark depths of Jewel or Wind Cave following the carbide survey marks of this dynamic duo of yesteryear, you have adventured well!

Since 1948 they have called the southern Black Hills of SD home. They recorded over 220 first ascent summits and explored over 60 miles of Jewel Cave putting it on the map as a world class cave. Jan explained with a grin during an awards presentation that ‘tourism was the last thing on their minds as they explored and adventured back in the day,’ but if you travel where they once went…it is easy to understand the draw. The hidden treasures and beautiful sights they discovered will be sought out by generations of explorers to come.

The Black Hills was a perfect place for Herb’s love of math, maps and adventure. He spent countless hours seeking out places that no human had ever been. He and Jan filled in blank spots on the maps and drew maps of places no one ever dreamed existed.

Herb was no socialite and his isolated existence added to the mystery and romance of this Custer couple. We might well learn more about him post mortem than we knew while he was with us, as people who knew him over the decades share their experiences. One thing everyone seems to agree on, is that he had a beautiful smile, simple presence and sweet giggle…… that cast a spell upon us all.

Jan appears to be doing well and plans to continue living in the Conn cave and in her words "doing a few things Herb might not approve of."  She, like Herb still glows when you see her, and has a zest for life that everyone can love.  We look forward to enjoying new adventures with her.  She said she plans to write a bit about Herb and we hope to post that here too when she gets done with it.

 

Other links

Mountain Project

Rapid City Journal

Caving News

 KDLT news

Super Topo - where I stole the nice photo from

Sylvan Rocks Blog - 1

Sylvan Rocks Blog - 2

John Gill Website


Is it spring yet?

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 29, 2012

Yeah, it's winter...and while it has been pretty nice here all winter, rock climbing time is still pretty limited.  If you have a climbing gym nearby to stay strong, I hope you are using it.  For the rest of us, here is a little video by John Sherman that will help make up for some rusty rock climbing muscles come spring, and get us on the right track for a great season. 

If you hang out around the Black Hills granite climbing areas, you might even see a few places that you have been as he filmed it right here in "Cheyenneville" or is that "John's Town."  Hard to tell....

Enjoy!  Climb Safe!

 

 

What is the Access Fund doing for you?

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 24, 2012

As many of  you know, the Access Fund is a great asses to climbers all across the country.  The Black Hills Climbers Coalition was formed many moons ago as a local chapter of the Access fund and they too hope to keep climbing alive and thriving here in the Black Hills.  We hope you are supporting members with your time and cash of both organizations.

Here is a nice little video of a few projects that the access fund did last year.

Top 10 Victories for the Access Fund in 2011.

  1. Mobilized climbing conservation with the launch of the Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team
  2. Continued to strengthen the grassroots climbing advocacy network by hosting the National Access and Stewardship Summit
  3. Prevented astronomical fee increases for climbing Mount Denali and Rainier
  4. Fought for adequate funding for American parks and public lands
  5. Awarded over $40,000 in grant money to support local climbing access and stewardship
  6. Continued to push federal agencies for a clear policy to allow the use of Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
  7. Expanded the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign to support emergency stewardship action
  8. Raised $75,000 to protect and steward Jailhouse Rock in California
  9. Offered local climbing organizations the opportunity to leverage the infrastructure and administrative capabilities of the Access Fund with joint membership
  10. Brought together individual climbers, leaders in the outdoor industry, and Access Fund board members past and present to celebrate our 20th anniversary

GO CLIMBERS!!!

Indoor MotoCross in Rapid City

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 22, 2012

Went out on the big town of Rapid City last night with my KLR motorcycle gang friends.  Had a great time watching guys rip it up on the Extreme indoor enduro races at the Rapid City Civic Center.

The obstacles were really pretty impressive.  The video below shows most of the track, but after riding through the culvert...they had them go out of the arena, up a couple flights of stairs, through the hallway and back down to the track.  It was wild to watch and I am sure a few of the racers are feeling some pain after last nights efforts. 

Hats off to Jessie Hanson from Rushmore Mountain Sports for racing in a few of the heats.  Glad to see that 2 kids are not slowing him down!

There were tons of wrecks, but I don't think anyone was seriously hurt.  Those big tires were crazy and the rocks and fire wood pile seemed like a sprained ankle or messed up knee waiting to happen.  What were they thinking?

Shot this little video on the new Iphone...pretty wild.

 

Dirtbag?? ...better learn to Dumpster Dive

Daryl Stisser - Friday, January 20, 2012

December, 2011 was a big month for us.  We did 2 things we'd never done before...and were pretty unsure about.  #1  We decided to try a Sams Club Membership.  I know, I can't believe it myself...the evil empire...the Devils House, but darn they have good cheap cheese.   And I can't goto Trader Joe's anywhere in a 5 state area around here, so we'll see how it works out.

 #2  We joined Netflix. Yes, we are a little Luddite like in that way, and plus we have never had a TV so it made it rather hard to enjoy.  We tied these two things together when we watched and highly recommend -   Dive - Living Off Americas Waste the other night, and boy did that bring back some good memories.  The dumpsters all looked the same.  I'm pretty sure we visited a few of the ones shown in years past.  Yes, its true, when we were spending 6 months a year on the road as Dirt Bags, we were Dumpster Divers too.  Cheryl loves a good dive more then most anything else.  Oh Boy...it sends shivers up her spine.  She revels in the randomness of not knowing what you are going to get and making due with what you find.  It was never as though we needed it all, but it was there, and good and just as the folks in the movie say, we felt just in taking and using trash that was otherwise destine to end up in the landfill.

Dive! image 

Our friend Marcus said it best in his thick Boston accent.  "We are living like KINGS....outa da dumpster.  Truffles, here we are eating truffles outa the dumpster....."  and we were.  Glad to see it is still going on.....well, except for the fact that America waste so much food.  We were, and continue to be, amazed at all the waste.  Around here, the pickings are a little slim, but in the big cities there are bigger supermarkets, less locked dumpsters, and TONS AND TONS of food is tossed every night.  The movie said we waste 50% of the food in this country, and after living like kings outa the dumpster for months on end, I believe it, and can tell you that the footage in the movie is totally accurate. Just take a minute to think about that. You and I waste half of the food that is produced.  All the hungry people here in South Dakota......across America and around the world, and we are wasting 50% of the food we produce.  Amazing.  I recall one night we garbage picked something like 58 logs of perfectly good goat cheese.  The stuff was top shelf.  Really good.  The type of thing we really liked, but would have never spent money on for even one log.   And we ate and gave it away and ate and ate it as fast as we could.  It kept well, but in the end, we had that dilemma, we could not use or give away all it before some went bad.  It pained us to throw some of it away....even though we tried to remember that it had been trash once already.  Crazy world we live in.  So if you get a chance....take a Dive.  Enjoy the food and the flix. 

The trailer below is good, the whole documentary is better.  Watch it....think about it.

 

Dive! Trailer from Compeller Pictures on Vimeo.

 

 

Dirt Bag Lifer

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Ran across this video from a FaceBook Friend.  It pretty well sums things up.  Live Simply and you can get by climbing for a lot of years.  Dirtbagging is something you have to give yourself to in order for it to work though.  If you aspire to do something else, that aspiration will eat at you and make it hard to fritter your time away in the middle of nowhere doing nothing but climbing and living the good life....., but if all you want to live for is the next sunset after a solid day of cranking..... being a dirtbag can pay huge dividends.  I've been there, I hung out with Alf a time or 2.  I met some awesome people, and climbed like a crazy man, but I was just a visitor to that lifestyle.  I was unable to cut loose and be that happy go lucky bum.  I look back at some of the chacters we met along the way and smile.  I know that a lot of them have, like Cheryl and I, moved on to more "adult" like lifestyles.  A few are still drifting down the highways to the next crag.  I knew a punk who kept all his earthly belongings in "that pile".....now he is gunna be fireman of the year or something crazy like that...house, wife, kids...the whole deal.   Crazy how things work out.  So as I get ready for another adventure, it warms my heart to think about all the friends and good times.   Cheers to all of you, all the places we went, the adventures we had, and friendship we shared.  Thanks for the good times.

 

 I hope you enjoy this video as much as I did.  LINK TO ALF SHOWING OFF "A DESERT LIFE" ON VIEMO.  DONE RIGHT AND WELL PUT TOGETHER BY Austin Siadak

 

Black Hills Tubing Madness

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 15, 2012

You know... people always say that climbing is dangerous... then they gladly go out an do things like tubing.

 

 

I mean...yes, it's great fun for the whole family, but way outa control. 

Go check it out.  Have fun and tell me how it was.  I'll be here by my cube heater thinking about rock climbing in a warm place....or maybe ice climbing in a cold place....or maybe just heading to the beach.  Everyone needs some winter vacation time.

Logging

Daryl Stisser - Thursday, January 12, 2012

"Momma...don't let your babies grow up to be"..... loggers.  Don't let them cut trees down and swing those big saws....."make them be doctors and lawyers and such."  Cheryl and I have been out cutting trees on some friends land in an effort to slow the march of the mountain pine beetle there.  I have learned how hard it is to swing a chainsaw all day tipping over big beautiful..... soon to be dead ....pine trees.  With any luck though, some of the logs might find their way to the saw mill rather than getting chunked up into little pieces and left to rot.  If you need fire wood...boy do I have a deal for you.  I'll let you know where there is more wood then you can haul.

 I am not sure that this any of this work will do much to slow the infestation even on this little plot, but we feel like we are doing what we can.   With 455+ marked trees...the process seems endless, but believe it or not, the end is in sight.  There have been 3-4 of us working on it for a few weeks, and just like anything else....it happens one step, or tree at a time.  Most importantly, nobody has gotten hurt yet, and we hope to keep it that way. 

Chainsaw Cheryl 

I tip them, Cheryl chunks them.

Chainsaw madness 

The little saw that could.

slaying trees makes cheryl sad 

Tipping trees makes the Lorax sad.

Tree tipper 

Pretty crazy the speed of change one person and a chainsaw can cause in a few minutes.  My 20 inch bar was barely long enough to slay some of these monsters.  They have seen lots of change in their lives just as I will no doubt continue to see more change in my short lifetime.

Visit Mount Rushmore without leaving your desk.

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Check out the new Mount Rushmore 3D computer models on the CyArk website.  I've had the opportunity to stand on George Washingtons head, and that was perhaps better then all the info I found on the new 3D mapping website, but I must admit, having all the world heritage sites laser scanned is pretty rad.

me standing on top of mount rushmore 

 Here is the official press release from the NPS.   Release Date: January 10, 2012

Launch of 3D Digital Portal Allows Virtual Access to Mount Rushmore
National Memorial

 

KEYSTONE, SD: Mount Rushmore announces the launch of a new digital portal,
http://archive.cyark.org/mount-rushmore-national-memorial-intro.  Beginning January 10, online visitors will have access to 3D models created through an innovative laser scanning process.

The digital portal features an array of rich multimedia material including an interactive virtual tour of the Memorial, navigable and measurable 3D “point cloud” models comprised of the billions of points collected by the laser scanners, and a large collection of historic photographs.

“With this innovative web portal, internet users around the world will be able to remotely access the Memorial, whether it is to plan a visit or to virtually explore unusual areas such as the Hall of Records,” said Superintendent Cheryl Schreier .

In May 2010, the National Park Service (NPS) collaborated with the Kacyra Family Foundation and CyArk, a non-profit organization dedicated to digitally preserving cultural heritage sites around the world, and the Center for Digital Documentation and Visualisation, a partnership between Historic Scotland and the Glasgow School of Art. The laser scanning project also owes its success to important contributions from Respec Engineering, and Wyss and Associates, who worked to develop a geo-referenced control network that was used to tie all the laser scan data together.

CyArk founder, Ben Kacyra, said, “It is an honor for our organization to digitally preserve such an important monument to the American spirit for generations to come. The CyArk website gives free access to users across the globe, allowing them to experience Mount Rushmore alongside other culturally significant world heritage sites.” A variety of sites at Mount Rushmore National Memorial were laser scanned and photographed to capture the Memorial and create a highly accurate digital model. The resulting information was used in the development of media for physical preservation work, education and virtual visits.

Watch the portal for scanned data utilized in forthcoming projects including a collection of K-12 lesson plans available for download to use in the classroom. Lesson plans were developed during an education workshop bringing together the expertise of local high school math and art educators, NPS, and CyArk. Also in development is a new on-site exhibit at the Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center where visitors will learn about the digital preservation process, see the equipment used as part of the laser scanning project, and explore the digital archive.

For further information regarding activities and events at Mount Rushmore National Memorial, please visit the park’s website at www.nps.gov/moru. To learn more about the CyArk organization contact Elizabeth Lee, Elizabeth.lee@cyark.org at 510-832-5440.

Change in South Dakota

Daryl Stisser - Sunday, January 08, 2012

Change on a landscape scale is difficult for us short lived humans to see and understand sometimes.  It is happing in the Black Hills with the Mountain Pine Beetle infestation.  If you have seen the brown pine trees spreading across the hills you have seen the result of the Mountain Pine Beetle passing through.  Something else is happening in South Dakota. 

The prairies of eastern South Dakota have long been known for awesome pheasant hunting.  As some of you know, I have been learning to hunt over the past few seasons.  I have had such a great time laughing and traveling with friends chasing birds.  It of course saddens me greatly to think that I may have already seen my greatest hunting seasons.  An article in the Kansas City Star does a great job of sharing some of the causes of why the prairies that make such good hunting and great wildlife habitat are being plowed up to grow food and fuel for a world that is exploding in population.

One comment I disliked in this article was how it singled out farmers of being greedy.  I think it is unfair to put that blame on only farmers as they are just doing what our society expects of them.  They are succeeding in business.  Unless you are the type to live off the grid growing your own food and not having any children....every one of us shares the blame for vast prairies being plowed under to create food.  Anyhow, I will let you read and judge for yourself.  Article Link.


SR Climbing School Blog

Red Rocks Climbing area threat

Daryl Stisser - Saturday, August 06, 2011
From the American Mountain Guides Assoc.

Fellow Climbers:

If you love Red Rocks, please read on.

If you've ever climbed at Red Rocks (who hasn't?), you understand how real the development pressure to this unique area has been in the last many years.  The Las Vegas suburb of Summerlin has now reached the very edge of the conservation area.  Some of us remember the days (only 15 years ago) when it was a long semi-rural drive from the edge of town to Red Rocks.  But at least for now, development has stopped from that direction and is still relatively far and largely out of sight from the cliffs and canyons we love.

That is about to change.

If local developer Jim Rhodes gets his way, the entire Blue Diamond Hill (the massive hill at the center of the RR cirque, that forms the foreground of the view from anywhere at Red Rocks, and the backdrop to the BLM campground, and is currently completely undeveloped) will become a brand new town of 5,000+ homes and about 15,000 residents, complete with shopping malls, schools, etc.  An official plan has recently been submitted to the county by the developers: it effectively puts a brand new mid-size city right in the middle of the conservation area.

rrdevelopment

The distance between the escarpment and the closest modern developments will drop from the current 10 miles to less than 3.5 miles.  This translates to an increase in the light and noise pollution by a factor of more than 8, not even accounting for the buffer effect played by the currently undeveloped hill!  If this plan goes forward, you may not even need a headlamp anymore for those early morning approaches to Resolution Arete!

For more details about the history of this situation, please see the first two references below.

On August 17 at 9AM, the Clark County Zoning Commission will meet to approve/disapprove this plan.

Opposition to the plan (www.saveredrock.com) has to date remained localized around the small town of Blue Diamond and local Las Vegas newspapers, largely due to a lack of information among the larger community.
 
Because climbers are uniquely attached to this area, I believe they are the most likely group to stand up for its preservation.  For the last few weeks, some of us have been trying to spread the word within the climbing community.  A public outcry to the officials involved, particularly if coming from the entire nation, may have a good chance of changing the outcome and saving this unique area.

Here's what you can do (in order of decreasing urgency, but remember, the key decision will be made on August 17, so there are only a few days to act):

1.      Call or write e-mails to Clark county commissioners:
         Do this now, and certainly before August 15!  See contact information below.
2.      Ask your friends to do the same: please forward this e-mail to all your friends!
3.      Sign the petition
4.      Send e-mails to congressmen and the BLM
5.      If you live reasonably close to Vegas, be at the Clark County zoning commission meeting
         on August 17, and either speak up or wear/carry evidence of your position on the issue.

Please ACT!

On behalf of the future of Red Rocks: thank you!
Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti.

APPENDICES

Contact Information:

Clark county commissioners:
All commissioners can be reached by phone at: (702) 455-3500
All commissioners can receive faxes at: (702) 455-3271
Clark County Commissioners, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV 89155
Steve Sisolak, District A, ccdista@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Tom Collins, District B, ccdistb@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Larry Brown, District C, ccdistc@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Lawrence Weekly, District D, ccdistd@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Chris Giunchigliani, District E, ccdiste@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Susan Brager, District F, ccdistf@ClarkCountyNV.gov
Mary Beth Scow, District G, ccdistg@ClarkCountyNV.gov

BLM Southern Nevada District Office:
Mary Jo Rugwell, District Manager,
4701 North Torrey Pines Drive
Las Vegas, NV 89130
Phone: 702-515-5000
Fax: 702-515-5023
Email: lvfoweb@blm.gov

NV Congressmen/women: (even if you don't live in NV, it doesn't mean you shouldn't contact them)
Senator Harry Reid (D- NV), 202-224-3542, http://reid.senate.gov/contact/index.cfm
Senator Dean Heller (R- NV), 202-224-6244, heller.senate.gov/contact_form.cfm
Representative Shelley Berkley (D-01), 202-225-5965, shelley.berkley@mail.house.gov
Representative Joe Heck (R-03), 202-225-3252, https://heck.house.gov/contact-me/email-me

Upcoming Clark County Zoning Commission meeting:

August 17 (Wednesday), 9:00 a.m.,
Clark County Government Building, Commission Chambers
Government Center, 500 S. Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV.

Suggested key points for use in e-mails to officials:
  • Red Rocks is a National Conservation Area, of considerable interest to all Americans and foreign tourists, with a unique oasis-like flora and fauna and amazing scenery.
  • Red Rocks is a world-renowned climbing area, visited each year by thousands of climbers from the US and abroad.  Those climbers spend their time and money at Red Rocks because of its unique beauty and undeveloped character.
  • Contrary to biased assertions in the developer's plan, the proposed development is in plain unobstructed view from most of the hiking and climbing locales in the Red Rocks NRA.  The top of the Blue Diamond hill is in fact the most immediately scenic feature from these places.
  • There are plenty of remaining areas available for development in the Las Vegas valley.  The Red Rock Canyon NRA is a unique resource to the people of Las Vegas and visitors from all over and it must be preserved
References and Links:

"Rhodes submits revised plan for developing Blue Diamond Hill," By Scott Wyland, Las Vegas Review-Journal, July 7, 2011.  http://www.lvrj.com/news/rhodes-submits-revised-plan-125130408.html

"Jim Rhodes is Coming: his homes will rise in Red Rock, but how sprawling is the developer's secret plan?" by Jason Whited, Las Vegas City Life, February 24, 2011,  http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2011/02/24/news/local_news/iq_42408246.txt

The developer's plan, ironically titled "Gypsum Reclamation Concept Plan", Gypsum Resources, LLC, June 29, 2011, http://www.reviewjournal.com/media/download/rhodes_plan.pdf

Website of the local action group: www.saveredrock.com

Mountainproject.com thread about the issue: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red-rock-threatened-by-development/107227001

SuperTopo.com thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1565955/Red-Rocks-under-imminent-threat-of-development

Falling Rock adopt a crag was a great success

Daryl Stisser - Tuesday, June 07, 2011

I am a little late, but many THANKS  to everyone who was out there last month during the Falling Rock Adopt a Crag that was put on in conjunction with the Black Hills National Forest and the Access Fund.

 Piece by piece, a huge truck of trash was hoisted up from the bottom and hauled away during a snowy cold miserable day.  Word of the great amounts of trash picked up and work completed has spread and the Johnson Siding VFD wants to help next year. Area residents saw the climbers out there working and sent in thanks.  This is the kind of good PR and support climbers need to continue our access to the climbing areas we love.  The Black Hills National Forest managers really notice when clubs, and individual users pitch in and help out.  With over a million acres to manage, the FS cannot be everywhere at once and cannot keep up with the impacts of so many recreational user groups as well as mining, grazing and timber programs to manage.

Members of The Black Hills Climbers Coalition will be out there next year....hauling up more trash that was tossed down the cliff by the general public.  The BHCC hopes to make this popular place on the forest a little more of a beautiful place to be enjoyed by everyone.  So if you love the Black Hills National Forest, please plan to attend and do your part.

Three cheers to all that helped out!!!

Road to Devils Tower now open

Daryl Stisser - Monday, June 06, 2011
Just a quick note, that the road between Devils Tower and Sundance, WY is open again.  It is one lane with a stop light.  So I think Crook County is up to 2 stop lights in the county now.  Have fun, climb lots.

Road to Devils Tower closed due to landslide

Daryl Stisser - Monday, May 30, 2011
Highway US 14, the road leading to Devils Tower from Sundance Wyoming experienced a landslide and is currently closed.  With all the rain the Black Hills of South Dakota and north east Wyoming have had this spring...things are falling apart.  So if you plan to go rock climbing at Devils Tower, plan to drive in from another direction.

The official word from Wyoming DOT

Please be advised: US14 between Sundance and Jct of US14 and WY24 is CLOSED due to landslide at milepost 185. No estimated opening date. Use alternate route.

Photo posted by Lindsay S.

image of landslide


Loose boulders on Devils Tower

Daryl Stisser - Friday, May 27, 2011
Went to Devils Tower yesterday (May 27, 2011) for our annual Staff Training day and to check out the conditions on a few of the popular routes we guide.  Discovered that Pseudo Weissners has a few HUGE blocks that are just about ready to fall out due to the wet wet wet spring we have had here.  These boulders were buried in soil at the end of last season and seemed quiet stable.  Now they are just held on by their weight and a small lip of rock.  So it is easy to imagine an unsuspecting climber knocking them loose, and making them fall straight onto the Bowling Alley where there are often many climbers racking up gear or rappelling or just hiking through.

While it would be more then a climbing helmet could protect you from if one of these boulders hit you...it reconfirms that helmets are required equipment for visiting Devils Tower if you plan to rock climb there.

Palisades State Park Climbers Work Day

Daryl Stisser - Saturday, April 23, 2011
For those of you from eastern SD, you know that the Palisades State Park near Sioux Falls is a great little gem on the prairie for some rock climbing.  True the place is kinda small an short, but the rock quality is great and its a heck of alot more fun then the rock gym.

Mark Greeno has put together an Adopt a Crag - work day for April 30th.

The climbing and or outdoor clubs from USD - SDSU and U of Neb Omaha's climbing clubs all plan to be there along with the local climbers of the area so it should be a great time.

Please come out and participate. These events are a great way to put a smiling face on the great sport of rock climbing.

8:45 - 9:15 am - Registration
9:00 am - noon - Trail Maintenance and Park Clean-Up
Noon - 1 pm - Free Lunch / Door Prizes / Live Acoustical Local Music / Slack-Line Activities
1 - 4 pm - Rock Climbing Activities

THIS EVENT HAPPENS RAIN OR SHINE!!!!

Hope to see lots of you out there doing something great and maybe even going home with some great new climbing gear or other schwag.

Looking for something to do with your tax return?

Daryl Stisser - Thursday, April 14, 2011
The American Safe Climbing Association is still replacing bolts for us climbers, and they still need money to buy hardware.  So here is an opportunity to help a great climber organization, and see your dollars doubled by Planet Granite in San Francisco, CA.

Planet Granite is hosting the ASCA Annual Fund raiser on April 27. Alex Honnold, Greg Barnes and I will be doing a presentation on what the ASCA has been up to. Alex will present his latest adventures. He'll tell the wild story of how the ASCA started and so mark your calendars and please respond if you can attend

The ASCA has now replaced 8000+ bolts.  If you have been on a climbig road trip to most any major rock climbing desintation in the past few years, I bet you have clipped a few new bolts that they put in, and been glad to do it.  I know I have!

So starting April 15th but before April 30th, grab your wallet and send the ASCA some cash.  OR stop by the Annual Fundraiser at Planet Granite to enjoy the show and make your donation, and know that Planet Granite will double what you give to the ASCA if you donate between April 15 and April 30th, 2011.

Mount Rushmore post new Rules for Rock Climbing Area

Daryl Stisser - Saturday, March 05, 2011
Mount Rushmore has refreshed their website and posted their most current rules for Rock Climbing within the monument borders.  Lots of great rock climbing there and great access.  Please follow the rules so that our access continues. 

The following is from a PDF downloaded directly from the Mount Rushmore Website.  The leashed pets rule is about the only change...and it is a huge privilege, as Mount Rushmore is one of the few areas managed by the National Park System that allows dogs off the roads...so please take care of and pickup after your pets and keep them on a leash as requested.  Also note, that the Forest Service will be adopting this rule in the Black Elk Wilderness and the Norbeck Wildlife preserve...so in and from Custer State Park to and in Mount Rushmore...your dog is welcome to join you out rock climbing, but only on a 6 foot leash.  In conversations with the Mount Rushmore Law Enforcement...expect more rangers in the Backcountry...and they will be there to Enforce the rules...which means a ticket if you are caught breaking them.  So bring your pup, but leave your power drill at home.

  • Rules and Regulations that pertain to recreational rock climbing Hiking or climbing within the signed Closure Area surrounding the sculptures is strictly prohibited.
  • Overnight use, camping, and open fires are not allowed within Memorial boundaries.
  • Bolting using hand tools is allowed. Fixed anchors are also permitted.
  • Unless authorized by a Special Use Permit issued through the office of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial Chief Ranger, the use of motorized power drilling is prohibited.
  • During special events, portions of climbing areas within the Memorial are subject to closure. While there is no entrance fee, there is a fee for using the main parking structure.
  • Dogs are currently allowed in the backcountry when on a leash of six feet or less. Pets may not be left unattended, and owners are responsible for removing solid pet waste.
  • All back country visitors are encouraged to practice “Leave No Trace” ethics in order to lessen impacts on fragile vegetation and other resources.
  • Off road travel is restricted to foot traffic only.
  • No wheeled vehicles are allowed off road.
  • Please sign in at the Climbing Registers.
  • Climber guide books for the area may be purchased at the Mount Rushmore bookstores located in the Visitor Center and Information Center.

Rock Climbing Bolts in the Wilderness

Daryl Stisser - Monday, January 17, 2011
Many of you may know that putting bolts in on lands that are officially designated by congress a s Wilderness, has long been a touchy subject.  If you are a route developer, this press release from the National Park Service may interest you. 
There was a meeting in October of 2010 with the Access Fund and several land managers about bolting in the Wilderness, and I've not heard all the details, but as time goes on I'm sure the Forest Service and other land mangers will be finalizing their wilderness bolting plans.  In a climate of shrinking governmental budgets, I'm not sure how the National Park Service hopes to accomplish the goal of a permit system for bolting laid out in this plan, but I do understand they need to somehow control what happens on the dirt they are charged with managing.  With millions of climbers and visitors it's no doubt a tough job.   "



"A simple equation exist between freedom and numbers: the more people the less freedom. If we are to retain the beauties of the sport, the fine edge, the challenge, we must consider our style of climbing...."
Royal Robbins, Basic Rockcraft, 1971


As always...keep your membership to the Access Fund paid up and join your local rock climbing club...such as the Black Hills Climbing Coalition, and attend all adopt a crag events like the ones that are being planned this spring for M-hill, and Falling Rock climbing areas to clean up trash that is left there by mostly non climbers.  Check out the new Black Hills Climbers Coalition website to for further details as they become available.



Mount Rushmore has plans to deal with the Mountain Pine Beetle here in the Black Hills.

Daryl Stisser - Friday, June 04, 2010
Mount Rushmore has already changed their plans for the 4th of July celebration from Fireworks to live entertainment because of the infection of their trees by the Mountain Pine Beetle (due to fire danger with the dry dead trees), and today they announced plans to treat the trees surrounding the faces of Mount Rushmore with hopes of slowing the spread of the beetles.

The official Press Release is below, but what it says is that they will be cutting down and removing some infected trees and spraying others with insecticide.  While they are doing this they will be closing areas that they are working in...this may affect your rock climbing trip to the Mount Rushmore Area if it happens to overlap with this work.

Mount Rushmore is home to some of the oldest and largest trees in the Black Hills National Forest so I understand their reason in wanting to protect them, but the beetle kill is an act of nature and so I find it rather interesting that the National Park Service would choose to interfere with it though the use of pesticides.

Many of you will notice that the Black Hills are changing and the forest will become more open and in many ways more "natural" due to the Mountain Pine Beetle that is currently at levels that are well within the historic norms.  The suppression of fire allowed the forest to get overly thick, and with the drought of recent years combined with many other factors to start up the Mountain Pine Beetle cycle here in the Black Hills and many other forest across the western states.  I always find it interesting how mother nature has a way of working things out.    We will all experience great new views of the beautiful landscape that surrounds us as the trees fall.  Already with the work that Custer State Park and the Forest Service have done...there are rock faces exposed that I have not seen (or Climbed on) even though I've lived here since the mid ninety's.


Thursday, 3 Jun 2010
Mount Rushmore National Memorial News Release


       Mount Rushmore Implements Mountain Pine Beetle Action Plan
     (Keystone, SD)  On Friday, June 4, 2010 Mount Rushmore National
Memorial will begin implementing the Mountain Pine Beetle Assessment and
Action Plan to address the mountain pine beetle (MPB) epidemic that is
occurring in the central Black Hills.  The action plan was developed by an
interdisciplinary team earlier this year and outlines steps that would
protect the memorial from wild fire, and would slow, and hopefully mitigate
the spread of the pine beetle, while protecting some of the old growth
forest of the memorial.

     The first phase of the plan will begin on Friday and involves
identifying green trees that are infested with the MPB.  These trees are
currently hosting the newest generation of pine beetles and have been
killed by the beetles.   Pine beetles in green infested trees typically
leave the trees in July and August to find new host trees.    With the help
of South Dakota State University and the South Dakota Cooperative Extension
Master Gardeners, Mount Rushmore will be surveying the forest to identify
and mark green infested trees.  Once these trees have been identified, they
will be cut down and dried out to remove and kill the immediate pine beetle
population that is in the park.  This process will be done every year to
identify any new beetle infestations.

     The second phase of the plan will begin Tuesday, June 8 to protect
the large diameter, high value trees within the visitor areas.  High value
trees have been identified as trees larger than 10 inches in diameter and
ones that contribute to the forested views of the memorial.  If these trees
were gone, visitor views of the memorial would look very different.  The
trees will receive a preventative insecticide spray that will ensure the
forested views of the memorial will remain intact.

     Mount Rushmore has identified over 700 trees to be sprayed during the
month of June.  Carbaryl 4L insecticide spray is the chosen spray for this
project.  It has proven success in the Black Hills and has also been used
in Rocky Mountain National Park to combat the MPB.  Trees will be sprayed
on their trunks by spray units on the ground.  While the spray is being
applied to the trees, many visitor areas may be closed to the public.
Actions to insure the health and safety of park visitors and staff include
park closures to keep sprayed areas secure.  Areas that have been sprayed
will be closed to visitors and staff for approximately 3-5 hours while the
carbaryl dries on the trees.  Once the spray is dry, the area is safe to
reenter.  Signs will be posted near the sprayed areas to identify trees
that have been sprayed.  Spraying is scheduled to occur in the early
morning, with areas closed to the public until 12 or 1 pm.  Areas will be
sprayed in sections and include trees along the Presidential Trail, around
the historic Sculptor’s Studio and along the roadways.

     The memorial hopes that these proactive and preventative measures
will protect the park’s forest from the worst damage caused by the current
MPB epidemic.  The most active area of MPB infestation and highest
concentration of tree mortality is in close proximity to the memorial and
the oncoming infestation has recently been observed within the park as
well.  The current outbreak appears to be larger and more widespread than
historically typical.  Mount Rushmore’s MPB Assessment and Action Plan was
developed to address the current epidemic and identify actions that will
return the forest to a more historic and sustainable condition that can
naturally protect itself against future pine beetle infestations.  The
final action plan is available on the NPS Park Planning website,
http://parkplanning.nps.gov.

Recent Posts

Slide Show
click any 'pic'
Climbing up the Spires in Custer State Park - Looking down at the Black HillsCuster State Park - Black Hills - South Dakota - ten-pins
Rock Climbing in Custer State Park - Black Hills - South DakotaYoung rock climber at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park
Rock climbing in the Black HillsDad and sons on top of one of the many great Black Hills Summits.
Cathedral Spires - Custer State Park - Black Hills - South DakotaClimber in the Black Hills, Custer State Park
Top of Cathedral Spires -Custer State Park, SDClimber in Spires-Black Hills-SD - Route is